While staying on Compass Cay in the Exumas, the owner has added a number of docks in the marina.  He hires a crew that lives in Spanish Wells which can be accessed via water taxi from the Island of Eleuthera.   The name of the company is CMS Marine Construction.

On Friday, May 4 of 2012, we travelled approximately 30 miles northwest of Highbourne Cay to arrive at Cape Eleuthera Marina (aka Cape E) located at Latitude: 24.83691 & Longitude: -76.34308.  It was a very rough ride.  The marina features full utilities, free Wi-Fi, deep draft 12′ MLW entry at a straight 90°, a provisions store and a restaurant, Pascal’s at Cape Eleuthera.  The north end of Eleuthera is just 50 miles east of Nassau and most people approach the island from that direction.  All of the charts warn against trying to navigate around the “Devils Backbone” without the help of a local guide.

From north to south the island of Eleuthera is approximately 90 miles in length and, in most places, little more than 2 or 3 miles wide except at the extreme northern and southern ends.  The original population of Taino, or Arawaks, was mostly deported by the Spanish to work in the mines of Hispaniola, where they died out by 1550. The island is believed to have been unoccupied until 1649 when a band of 100 persons and 2 clergymen arrived from England and Bermuda.  The party was known as the “Eleutheran Adventurers” and set up what was probably the first true democracy which the western world had known.  Eleuthera means “freedom” in ancient Greek.

Preacher’s Cave, on the north end, was home to the Eleutherian Adventurers when they first arrived.  Due to a conflict in Preacher’s Cave, the settlers split up.  Some of them remained on Eleuthera and others moved to a small island off the coast.  This island is St. Georges Cay and the settlement is Spanish Wells. It is located approximately ½ mile off the tip of northern Eleuthera on the west side.  Most of the people living in Spanish Wells are descendants of the Eleutherian Adventurers.  They survived by fishing and collecting fruit from the island.

The American War for Independence (1776 – 83) caused another influx of immigrants to Eleuthera who wanted to remain loyal to Britain (the Loyalists).  They planned on establishing plantations in the Bahamas and brought their slaves from America with them.  Because the people of Spanish Wells continued to believe that all people deserve freedom, they made it clear that the people who used slaves should leave. They disassociated themselves from the neighboring islands who dealt with slavery. Because of these beliefs, Spanish Wells has a predominantly white population.  Some of the original cottages built over two hundred years ago are still standing. The majority are painted in bright pastel colors. The English spoken by the natives is still a version of the dialect their ancestors used over three hundred years ago. The main religions are Methodist, Bretheren and Fundamentalist.

The main source of income for the people on Spanish Wells is from the fishing industry. From August until March, the men of Spanish Wells take several trips and stay out for approximately three to four weeks a trip collecting the spiny crawfish, or lobster. The crawfish is exported to Europe and the United States. Many of the young men of Spanish Wells often leave school to pursue a career on the smack fishing boats because it is so profitable for them.  With the fishing industry in Spanish Wells, it makes sense that there would also be skilled dock builders in the area as well.

The name Spanish Wells comes from the history of the Spanish sea captains. These captains sank two-foot wells in the sand to replenish their water supply before crossing the Atlantic. The principal settlements on Eleuthera are Governor’s Harbour (the administrative capital), Rock Sound, Tarpum Bay, Harbour Island, with its unusual pink sandy beaches, and Spanish Wells. Even though the pineapple plantations are no longer there, the island is still noted for the excellence of its pineapples and holds an annual Pineapple Festival in Gregory Town.

We rented an SUV on Saturday morning and headed to the north end of the island from Cape Eleuthera.  Not long after leaving the resort, we both noticed an odd sound coming from the car.  We continued through Deep Creek, Greencastle and other small settlements to Rock Sound.  We had been told that there was a nice IGA food store there and I had read that there was a Winn Dixie store.  We stopped at the Marketplace Shopping Center which had a small grocery and Rick went into the NAPA store to shop.  We also found an ATM at the Scotia Bank.  We did not see any major grocery stores.  We continued north on the Queens Highway but as we drove we realized that there was something seriously wrong with the rental vehicle.  We had been gone for an hour and a half but we felt we’d better turn around and return the vehicle and try to get another one.  The noises continued to get worse and Rick said that the car was getting harder to control.  We got back to the resort and got another SUV and started out again about noon.   

Our second time through Rock Creek, we decided to turn off of the Queens Highway (still looking for the IGA) and drive through the town.  We didn’t find the IGA, but we did find Ocean Hole.  There is a nicely landscaped park here.  The hole must have been given its name because the water raises and lowers with the tides. 

Moving north from Rock Sound, we went through Tarpum Bay, a fishing village, where the road takes a turn and then runs right along the water for some time.  It was obvious from the architecture that this was an early settlement on the island.  Just before getting to Governor’s Harbour, we went through Palmetto Point.  (That’s the name of the neighborhood in Florida where we used to live.)

I had used four reference books and several sites on the internet to research places to go and things to see on Eleuthera.  One of the books said that Governor’s Harbour had the only traffic light on the island.  I particularly wanted to go to the Duck Inn after reading, “Sip a cool drink on the waterfall patio where 5,000 species of orchids live and watch the local fowl crossing the street with the light.”  I love orchids and thought that this would be a glorious site indeed.  Well, there was no traffic light in town.  After driving past the Duck Inn three times, we were finally able to find a one-way street up the 142-foot hill and another one-way street down the hill to the entrance of the Inn where we discovered a “closed” sign and a “for sale” sign. 

At the beginning of the day, we had decided that we would not make a lot of stops along the way, but drive all the way to the north first and then make the stops on our return trip, so we skipped the antique remains of buildings on Cupid’s Cay which testify to a long history of settlement in the region, particularly as the headquarters of 17th century Eleutheran Adventurers. 

From here we passed through settlements called James Cistern, Hatchet Bay, Alice Town, and Gregory Town to get to the area called “The Glass Window”.  This is the “skinniest” part of the island (30 feet wide).  The land is high on either side but falls away abruptly to nearly sea level.  They say that there used to be a natural bridge over it, but it eroded away so a man-made bridge was built in 1961.  That bridge was knocked 7 feet to the west by a rogue wave in 1991 but has been replaced by a very sturdy looking one. 

The latest edition of Explorer Charts for this area contained the following note:  “Customs/Immigration:  Extension of permit available only at Lower Bogue from North Eleuthera Airport”, so we headed for the airport to see about getting an extension on our cruising permit.  When we presented ourselves to the immigration official at the airport, she was very nice and told us that we would have to wait until closer to the expiration date and not to worry, we would find immigration offices throughout the Exumas.  She also said that if we were to extend the permit here, we would have to go to the immigration office in town, not at the airport!  

Additionally, she gave us directions to get to the water taxi that would take us to Spanish Wells.  (Take a right at the Texaco Station and go to the end of the road.)  We followed her directions and came to the end of the road at an area Jean Bay (although the map we were using – Franko’s Eleuthera Island Adventure Guide – called it James Bay.)  We parked the car and paid the $8/per person round-trip fare to go to St. George’s Island and the fishing village of Spanish Wells.  Several people had recommended that we visit this area, including Wilma and Frankie, whom we met while staying at Great Harbor Cay.  Since Frankie is a fisherman, we figured that was a recommendation which should take seriously. 
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The reference books said, “When you meet white-blond hair, close-set pale blue eyes, and a broad West Country burr blended with Bahamian patois, you’ll know you’re in Spanish Wells.  The settlement of Spanish Wells occupies most of compact St. George’s Cay, which is connected by bridge to Russell Island.  The tidy, colorful little community dates back to the 17^th century.  We had read, “On such a small island, its charming cottages and splendid gardens are easily seen on a walking tour.”  Well, we started out walking (even though I was wearing a boot on my broken foot), but after more than half an hour we hadn’t really seen much of anything, so we returned to the water taxi dock and rented a golf-cart ($10/hr).  We asked the clerk if there was anywhere we could get something to eat and she told us that all eating establishments close at 3:00 p.m. and don’t open again until 6:00 p.m.  It was 4:00 p.m. at the time, so I got a cold drink and a snack and we took off in the golf cart to see the island.  We took some pictures of the old “salt-box” homes.  Some had plaques, noting the age of the home and who had lived in them back then – like Captain Kidd.  We caught the 5:00 water taxi back to the “mainland” – they stopped running at 5:30. 

Much to our very unpleasant surprise, when we returned to the rental car, the battery was dead!  A couple of people tried to help us, but with no good results.  Finally, someone called a taxi for us.  When the taxi driver arrived, dressed in his slacks, long-sleeved white dress shirt and tie, David insisted on opening the hood and trying to jump the car again.  Thank goodness he did, because he found that the battery cable connections had loosened.  Once we tightened the connections, and he found a local man with jumper cables, we were off and running. 

After spending a very long day in the car, we managed to get back to the Cape Eleuthera Resort just before 9:00 p.m. and in time to go to the Bahama Coffee Company to order a pizza.  We were a few minutes after their deadline, but they made it anyway. 

We were to return the car on Sunday morning, but after Rick told the lady what had happened to us with the second car she agreed to call the “Boss” and Mr. Pinder let us keep the car for half a day more  to compensate us for our expenses in getting the taxi and jump.  So we returned to Rock Sound to try to buy groceries.  No luck – most everything is closed on Sunday.  We stopped at a service station and filled the car up.  We had put over 200 miles on it yesterday.  The gas was $6.16/gallon and we spent more than $100 to fill it up.  Now, we headed south with a goal of Lighthouse Point and beach, which had been suggested by the lady who rented us the vehicle. 

We turned off of the Queens Highway headed toward the Cotton Bay Resort and Beach.  The information we had about Lighthouse Point Beach said it was quite a hike to get there – but well worth it.  So, we thought if we could drive to Cotton Bay Beach (supposedly a pink-sand beach) it would be easier on me with my broken foot.  We drove to within steps of the beach, but were not that impressed, so we continued on to the Lighthouse.  Driving south through Wemyss Bight, John Millars and Millers, we were looking for a paved road that looped above Bannerman Town which would connect to a secondary road to the Point.  We were in Bannerman Town without ever finding the loop.  Before long, we saw a bunch of very colorful buildings and determined that it was the area owned by Princess Cruise Line.  We went to the end of the paved road.  Rick got out and walked to the beach but could see no sign of a lighthouse.  We turned around and headed back, but decided to turn onto a pretty good looking two-rut road.  As we were driving along, we both noticed that parts of the road looked like it used to be paved.  Ah Ha! We had found the loop.  Before long, we saw a sign indicating the turn to Lighthouse Beach.  How lucky could we get?  As we continued along this path – I say path because it was sometimes limestone; mostly washed-out limestone gullies and sometimes very soft sand.  We bounced and jounced for what seemed like forever; went around blind curves and up and down some good sized hills.  This beach was billed as a blush-rose sand beach that you need a 4-wheel drive vehicle to get to – along with a good hike.  We thought we would be the only people for miles around, but there were three vehicles on the road in sight of each other as we bounced along.  We did make it to the beach and it was beautiful.  The “hike” was not bad. 

With the recollection of all we had been through yesterday plus this “wild ride”, I dubbed us the “New Eleutheran Adventurers.”  If you do come to the island of Eleuthera and decide to see the island by car, I would strongly advise getting one of the Adventure Guide Maps.  They were selling for $10 in the office, but we found one in the first vehicle we had.  How lucky for us, because even with its flaws, we would literally have been lost many times over without it.

As we were returning, we came upon Davis Harbour Marina and Rick decided to turn in to check it out.  Of note, Davis Harbour had free Wi-Fi.  We walked around the charming facility but could find no one to answer questions.  This was a really nice looking marina which is used mainly by fishing boats.  The buildings had yellow clapboard siding and there were bougainvillea decorating the fences.  There was a nice area between the basin and the beach which had a stand of Australia Pines providing lots of shade.  If we should ever come this way again, I believe I would try to stay here.  In 2014, their website provided the following description:

“Davis Harbour Marina has been serving mariners in South Eleuthera for over 30 years. Our strategic location near the southern tip of Eleuthera provides the perfect jumping off point to spectacular fishing grounds for bone fishing and deep sea fishing.  We have 24 slips total, accommodating up to 80′ alongside @ LW. Depth Dockside: 8′.  We offer fresh water by means of a reverse osmosis system (RO), shower facilities, laundry facilities and ice.  Gas and oil are also available on site, and propane in Rock Sound. Our dock master can arrange for hauling, engine, hull and electronic repairs.  The marker buoy for entrance to the channel is located at GPS Lat/Lon 24 43′ 773 N / 76 15′ 147 W.”

We had a very limited time on Eleuthera and once we returned to Florida and started talking to friends, everyone said that we should have gone to Harbour Island.  Since we did not, I cannot tell you anything about it from direct experience.  But, many of our friends and relatives frequently go to Harbour Island.  It sounds like that is where all the “action” is.  And, it is famous for its pink sand beaches.  But, we saw a pink sand beach at Lighthouse Point and we remained far from the madding crowds.  I think we made a good choice.